Surf Report Thursday , 6th of August 2009
The colours of the morning splashed against the cream walls of the camp. Blue and green, with the sun throwing in dashes of warm yellow. Wispy white clouds danced above where the water and sky met in the distance, as if celebrating their communion. The peace was perforated by the low rumbling of the waves, sending impenetrable walls of whitewash towards the awaiting surfers. Lined like militant ants they waited silently for the onslaught. The casualties mounted. Grego’s brother thought Grego needed to toughen up so he ran over him with his board, splitting his eyebrow and sending him to the medic for five stitches. A young lady from a fellow surfcamp also split her eyebrow and rumour has it that they fell in love in the doctors waiting room. The rest of the lads didnt care too much about the dangerous conditions, or Grego, and fought for many hours. Boris the Russian got wave of the day catching it all the way to the shore, including a nice turn to avoid a 9ft 6inch longboard coming for his head. He also squeezed in a modest claim at the end to acknowledge the applause on the beach. The dutch brothers, Ludo and Jesse, thought everything was getting a bit too crazy so their mummy came and picked them up. After 7 days of surfing the boys were ripping and loving it, sincerely stating that they will be back.
Late last night a few boys had a classic session at backdoor. Four foot walls were rolling over the reef providing turn after turn possibilities. They surfed late into the night, saying farewell to the sun and welcoming the moon.
With the swell getting bigger things should only get more entertaining.