Surfing is not just a sport; it’s a culture with its own language and terms that can sometimes sound like a foreign tongue to newcomers.
Whether you’re a beginner surfer or an experienced wave rider, understanding the surf lingo is crucial to effectively communicate with fellow surfers and immerse yourself in the surfing culture.In this glossary of surfing terms and surf slang, we’ll break down some common phrases and expressions used by surfers around the world.
1. Breaking Waves
“Breaking wave” or “wave breaks” refers to when waves approach the shore and their height becomes too much for the water depth, they start to break, transforming from smooth, rolling swells into white, foamy crests. Surfers ride these breaking waves, propelling themselves forward with big waves energy.
Picture yourself sitting on your board, scanning the horizon for the perfect wave to catch. When a wave approaches and its height becomes too much for the water depth, it starts to break, creating that iconic foamy crest that surfers love to ride.
Breaking waves offer an exciting opportunity for you to harness the wave’s energy and propel yourself forward, catching that unforgettable ride that will leave you craving more. Keep in mind that breaking waves come in various shapes and sizes, ranging from gentle rollers suitable for beginners to more powerful and challenging waves for experienced surfers.
2. Surf Sesh
The term “surf sesh” is short for “surf session,” and it’s one of the most cherished aspects of being a surfer. In simple terms, a surf sesh refers to the time you spend in the water, riding waves, and enjoying the magic of the ocean.
It’s that pure, unadulterated joy of catching waves, feeling the rush of adrenaline as you glide along the water’s surface, and being fully immersed in the elements. Some surfers chase big waves and seek out epic surf spots, while other surfers enjoy the simplicity of catching smaller waves at their local beach break.
3. Turtle Roll
A nifty maneuver that allows surfers to navigate through oncoming waves when they find themselves in the impact zone – the area where waves are breaking close to shore.
Here’s how it works: when you spot an oncoming wave, it’s time to execute it. As the wave approaches, quickly position yourself on your surfboard and paddle towards the wave’s face. Just as the wave is about to break, arch your back, push down on the back end of your board, and tilt the nose of the board down into the water.
By doing this, you create a streamlined shape that allows the wave to pass over you without knocking you off your board. As the wave rolls over, hold on tight and stay low on your board, just like a turtle tucking into its shell – hence the name “Turtle Roll.” Mastering the turtle roll is an essential skill for any surfer, as it helps you navigate through breaking waves with ease and confidence, making your surf sessions safer and more enjoyable.
4. Surf Break
A surf break is a specific location where waves break consistently, creating ideal conditions for surfing. It’s the sweet spot where surfers paddle out to catch waves.
Surf breaks can be found along coastlines, and they vary in size and shape, offering different types of waves for all skill levels. Some breaks have gentle, rolling waves suitable for beginners, while others boast powerful, barrelling waves favoured by experienced surfers. Understanding different surf breaks is crucial for choosing the right spot that matches your ability and preference.
5. Dawn Patrol
Dawn patrol is an exciting and dedicated surfing tradition where surfers hit the waves early in the morning, usually before sunrise. It’s a cherished time when the first light of day paints the sky with stunning hues, and the ocean is serene and uncrowded. Surfing at dawn patrol offers several advantages, including catching the best waves before others arrive, experiencing calm and glassy conditions, and connecting with nature in a peaceful setting. It requires commitment and an early start, but the rewards are priceless – a blissful surfing experience and a chance to witness the world awaken with the rising sun.
6. Point Break
A point break is a type of surf break formed by a coastal headland or rocky point where waves wrap around the point and break along an extended shoreline.
This creates long, peeling waves that offer consistent and rideable surf conditions. Point breaks are known for their smooth and predictable waves, making them ideal for beginners and experienced surfers alike. They provide longer rides, giving surfers more time on the wave to practice and enjoy the thrill of surfing. Point Breaks are often popular surf spots and can get crowded, especially when conditions are favourable.
7. Reef Break
A reef break is a type of surf break that occurs when waves break over a coral reef or rocky seabed. This creates challenging and powerful waves that can offer both exhilarating rides and potential hazards.
Reef breaks are known for their fast and hollow waves, making them popular among more experienced surfers seeking a thrilling and intense surfing experience. Surfing on a reef break requires precision and skill to navigate through shallow waters and avoid the sharp rocks or corals beneath the surface. While reef breaks can be intimidating for beginners, they offer incredible opportunities for advanced surfers to test their abilities and ride some of the best waves the ocean has to offer.
8. Barrel or Tube
The Green Room, also known as the “Barrel” or “Tube,” is the ultimate surfer’s dream – it’s the hollow space inside a breaking wave.
When a wave breaks perfectly and forms a tunnel-like opening, surfers can ride through this cylindrical space, surrounded by the translucent and shimmering water, hence the name “Green Room.” It’s an exhilarating and awe-inspiring experience, offering a sense of being enclosed within the wave while the world outside becomes a blur.
Riding inside requires skill, timing, and a deep understanding of the wave’s behavior. It’s a mark of an accomplished surfer to be able to navigate the tube and come out unscathed on the other side.While it takes practice and experience to master riding it, it’s one of the most sought-after moments in surfing, and every surfer dreams of the day they catch that perfect barrel ride.
9. Goofy Foot
Goofy Foot is a term used to describe a surfer’s stance on the board. If you’re a “goofy foot,” it means you prefer to have your right foot positioned at the front of the surfboard, while your left foot stays at the back.
This stance is opposite to the more common “regular foot” position, where the left foot is forward. Determining whether you’re a Goofy or Regular Foot is essential as it affects your balance and turning abilities while riding waves. Many surfers discover their preferred stance naturally, and it’s essential to feel comfortable and stable on the board. So, if you find that you naturally place your right foot forward on the surfboard, you’re a goofy foot surfer, and you’re all set to ride the waves with your unique style.
10. Ten Toes
“Ten Toes” is a playful term in the surfing world that refers to a beginner surfer who may not be very skilled yet on the board.
It’s a light hearted way of describing someone who is new to the sport and still learning the ropes. The name comes from the image of a novice surfer trying to maintain balance on the board with all 10 toes gripping the surface as they navigate through the waves.
While being a “ten toes” surfer is nothing to be ashamed of, it’s a reminder that every experienced surfer was once a beginner. Embrace the learning process, take your time to practice, and enjoy the journey of improving your surfing skills.
11. Set Waves
“Set Waves” are a series of larger and more organized waves that arrive in a consistent pattern. They are different from the regular, smaller waves that break more frequently.
Set waves offer surfers the opportunity to catch longer and more powerful rides, making them highly sought after during a surf session. Typically, set waves arrive in groups with a few minutes of lull between each set. Learning to identify Set Waves is crucial as they present the best chances for catching quality rides.
12. Kook
“Kook” is a term used to describe a beginner or inexperienced surfer who may exhibit awkward or unskilled behaviour in the water. It’s essential for beginner surfers to understand that being called a “kook” is not meant to be derogatory but rather a way of highlighting the learning process all surfers go through.
Surfing is not just a sport; it’s a vibrant culture with its own unique language and terms. As surfer rides the waves, most surfers immerse themselves in the camaraderie of local surfers, eagerly waiting for the perfect moment to catch that ultimate party wave at their favorite beach break.
From the young surfer confidently riding the waves with their left foot forward to seasoned surfers planning epic surf trips to exotic surf destinations, the surf culture thrives on the shared experiences and surfer slang that bonds this community together.
Whether it’s the thrill of riding set waves or the challenge of navigating oncoming waves with onshore winds, surfing culture embraces every aspect of the sport and the exhilarating green room moments that every surfer dreams of. As surfers catch waves and turn with grace, a glossary of surfing terms helps bridge the gap between the beginner surfer and the seasoned wave rider, encouraging a spirit of inclusivity and understanding.
So hang loose, embrace the unique part of the wave that calls to you, and remember, in the green room of the ocean, every surfer catches their own wave in this beautiful world of surfing etiquette and shared stoke. Happy surfing, and don’t forget to visit our surf camp!
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FAQs
“Shaka” is a hand gesture often used by surfers to express a positive vibe or to greet others. It involves extending the thumb and pinkie finger while keeping the three middle fingers folded.
In surf lingo, a “barney” refers to an inexperienced or novice surfer. It’s often used playfully but can also describe someone who is unaware of surf etiquette or is struggling in the waves.
When a surfer says, “It’s firing!” they mean that the waves are exceptionally good or that the conditions are ideal for surfing. It indicates excitement about the quality and size of the waves.
A “stoked” surfer is someone who is extremely happy, excited, and enthusiastic about their surfing experience. Being “stoked” reflects the pure joy and satisfaction derived from riding waves.
A “point break” refers to a type of surf break where waves break along the coastline, often peeling or curling in a consistent manner. Point breaks are known for producing long and rideable waves, making them popular among surfers.
“Going switch” or “riding switch” refers to a surfer riding a wave with their non-dominant foot forward on the surfboard. It’s a term borrowed from snowboarding and skateboarding, where riders also have a preferred stance.
A “wipeout” occurs when a surfer falls off their surfboard while attempting to ride a wave. It’s a common term used to describe the often dramatic and uncontrolled process of losing balance and being submerged in the water.
A “cutback” is a maneuver where a surfer changes direction on a wave by making a smooth, arcing turn. It’s a fundamental skill used to maintain momentum and stay in the critical part of the wave.
In surf lingo, a “barrel” refers to the hollow, tubular part of a breaking wave. Getting “barreled” or “tubed” is considered a high-level surfing experience, and it’s often seen as the ultimate goal for many surfers.
The “lineup” is the area where surfers wait for and catch waves. It’s typically a defined zone where surfers position themselves to take turns and catch the incoming waves. Understanding and respecting the lineup is crucial for good surf etiquette.
