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The endless swells of the ocean have produced surfing’s most iconic personalities, riders whose very names conjure up visions of radical turns, soaring aerials, and a fearless desire to challenge waves of consequence. From the hot-dogging pioneers of the 1960s to those pushing the limits of progression today, here are five legendary surfers that have left their mark on every beach their boards have graced.
Get to know the lives, mindsets, and exploits of the best surfers in the world that defined surfing’s celebrated pioneers.
Key takeaways: five of the best
- Duke Kahanamoku, known as the ‘Father of Modern Surfing,’ helped pioneer and popularize surfing globally, leaving a legacy that shapes surf culture today.
- Kelly Slater has set the bar for competitive surfing with 11 world titles, is a champion of wave pool technology, and promotes environmental sustainability.
- Bethany Hamilton’s incredible comeback to professional surfing after surviving a shark attack is a tale of resilience, serving as an inspiration across and beyond the surfing community.
- Layne Beachley used her seven world titles to advocate for gender equality in surfing, fighting for equal opportunities, pay, and sponsorships for women.
- Laird Hamilton revolutionized big wave surfing with innovations like tow-in surfing, reinforced “gun” shapes, and combining disciplines like hydrofoiling and paddling.
The Father of Modern Surfing: Duke Kahanamoku
Duke Kahanamoku is considered the “Father of Modern Surfing”, and for good reason. A Native Hawaiian waterman from Waikiki, he played a central role in spreading the sport of surfing from the isolated Hawaiian Islands to the rest of the world in the early 20th century.
Accomplishments
- Won three Olympic gold medals (100m freestyle in 1912 and 1920, 4x200m freestyle relay in 1920) and two silver medals (4x200m freestyle relay in 1912, 100m freestyle in 1924) as a swimmer.
- Set multiple world records in the 100-yard freestyle between 1911-1917, with his time of 55.4 seconds in 1911 initially not recognized due to its incredible speed.
- Credited with popularizing and reviving the sport of surfing, introducing it to the mainland United States, Australia, New Zealand and other parts of the world through exhibitions.
- Performed a heroic rescue in 1925, saving 8 men from a capsized boat using his surfboard, which led to surfboards being adopted for life saving efforts.
- Served as Sheriff of Honolulu for 29 years from 1932-1961 and was named Hawaii’s “Ambassador of Aloha” in 1959, promoting Hawaiian culture globally.
Early Life and Hawaiian Sports Prowess
Born in 1890 in Honolulu, Duke grew up immersed in traditional Hawaiian ocean sports and cultural practices. From a young age, he excelled at surfing, paddling, and swimming. His swimming abilities were particularly remarkable—Duke shattered the world record in the 100m freestyle as a teenager in 1911 and went on to win gold and silver medals at the 1912 Olympics in Stockholm, becoming Hawaii’s first Olympic champion.
Taking Surfing to the Masses
While competitive swimming earned Duke accolades, it was the ancient sport of surfing that became his true passion and legacy. In the early 1900s, surfing was still relatively unknown outside of Hawaii. But Duke instantly recognized its universal appeal and made it his mission to introduce surfing to the world.
In 1915, the renowned “Duke of Surf” traveled to Sydney, Australia, as a swimming instructor. It was at iconic Freshwater Beach that Duke gave exhibitions of surfing, gliding gracefully across the waves on his longboard. The enthralled crowds were getting their first glimpses of the sport. Duke spent his free time promoting and evangelizing about surfing’s artistry, spiritual uplifting, and the athletic elegance required to excel on the waves. Thanks to Duke’s ambassadorship, Australia’s very first surfing community took root.
The Ultimate Competitor: Kelly Slater
Of all surfing’s modern icons and world-class talents to emerge, none burned quite as bright or achieved so much greatness as the legendary Kelly Slater. His competitive accomplishments were only outmatched by his driving desire to keep redefining the limits of what was possible on a surfboard. It’s clear to see why he’s one of the best surfers of all time.
Accomplishments
- 11-time World Surf League Champion: Kelly Slater won the World Surf League (WSL) Championship a record 11 times, including five consecutive titles from 1994 to 1998.
- Youngest and Oldest World Champion: He became the youngest world champion at age 20 in 1992 and the oldest at age 39 in 2011.
- 56 Championship Tour Victories: Slater holds the record for the most Championship Tour event wins, with 56 victories throughout his career.
- Perfect 20 Heats: He achieved three Perfect 20 heats in his career, scoring two perfect heats at Teahupo’o and one at Cloudbreak.
- Innovative Wave Pool Creator: Slater developed the Kelly Slater Wave Company, which created the world’s first artificial barreling wave, known as the Surf Ranch, unveiled in 2015.
Breaking Records and Setting Standards
Of all the best surfers of all time and surfing’s modern icons, none loom larger than the universally-celebrated Kelly Slater. Born in 1972 in Cocoa Beach, Florida, Slater ascended from prodigy to legend to achieve a record 11 World Surf League Championship titles between 1992 and 2011. This unparalleled competitive success transcended surfing itself—Kelly’s longevity and dominance are considered among the greatest athletic feats in any sport.
While his achievements are staggering from a pure numbers standpoint, it was Slater’s revolutionary approach that reshaped surfing’s boundaries. His powerful yet graceful style displayed an unmatched blend of speed, aggression, and innovation that seemed to defy physics.
Taking full advantage of modern shortboard design, Kelly unleashed filmers’ wildest dreams with huge aerial maneuvers, seamless combos, and radical carves for which the judges created new high-score categories. Simply put, Slater raised surfing’s technical ceiling and pumped jet-fuel into the sport’s progression period.
Innovations and Environmental Advocacy
Never content to rest on his laurels, Kelly Slater’s desire to push performance limits extended beyond the jersey. Recognizing certain deficiencies in existing surfboard and wetsuit technology, Slater co-founded brands like Outerknown and Slater Designs to refine and innovate the sport’s equipment. His artificial wave pool concept, Surf Ranch, made major waves by demonstrating the viability of generating ideal practice waves in landlocked settings.
Moreover, Slater used his global platform to raise awareness about environmental issues like marine pollution, overfishing, and coastal erosion. Through initiatives like the Outerknown brand and Kelly Slater Wave Co., he championed sustainability and worked to reduce surfing’s environmental impact. The 11-time world champ recognized that preserving the ocean’s health is critical to the future of surfing.
Inspiration for Young Surfers
Even past the age of 50, Slater still competes against the world’s best surfers with the same competitive fire and unquenchable appetite for progression he’s had since he was a grommet. He’s become an inspirational icon to multiple generations of surfers: his longevity proving age is just a number, his championship focus demonstrating the value of total dedication, and his smooth power serving as the aesthetic blueprint for high-performance surfing.
For every young competitive surfer paddling out with dreams of making their mark on the sport, they need only look towards Slater’s paradigm-shifting career to understand the level of commitment, skill, and passion required to become an icon in their own right.
The Resilient Champion: Bethany Hamilton
When it comes to surfing’s biggest inspirational stories, few resonate quite as powerfully as Bethany Hamilton’s tale of tragedy, resilience, and then triumph against all odds to become one of the best surfers in the world. Her journey turned her into an international icon who personified the very best of the indomitable human spirit.
Accomplishments
- Shark attack survivor: Returned to surfing one month after losing her left arm in a shark attack in 2003.
- NSSA National Champion: Won the National Scholastic Surfing Association (NSSA) National Championship in 2005.
- Best-selling author: Authored “Soul Surfer,” a best-selling autobiography that was adapted into a feature film in 2011.
- Multiple awards: Received numerous awards, including the ESPY Award for Best Comeback Athlete in 2004.
- Founded Beautifully Flawed Foundation: Established a non-profit organization to support shark attack survivors and individuals with limb differences
Tragic Turn and Triumphant Return
Bethany Hamilton had been surfing practically since she could walk. Born into a family of surfers in Kauai, Hawaii, in 1990, Bethany was a rising young star on the women’s amateur circuit by her early teens and seemed destined for a successful pro career.
That all nearly ended on October 31, 2003, when the 13-year-old was attacked by a 14-foot tiger shark while surfing off Kauai’s North Shore. The horrific incident cost Bethany her entire left arm. Most would have understandably become consumed by the resulting emotional trauma, physical pain, and seeming loss of their life’s passion. But within a month of the attack, Bethany’s resolute mindset shifted—she felt a renewed determination to overcome this unthinkable setback and return to the water.
Riding Waves with One Arm
With characteristic Hawaiian spirit, Bethany got back in the ocean just three weeks after her amputation, undeterred by the extraordinary challenges of learning to surf with just one arm. Using her custom-made board that allowed her to duck-dive and knee-paddle, Bethany refined her pop-up technique by pushing the board as she stood up. Once on her feet, she rode with her signature grit and stylish rail-to-rail carves, almost supernaturally maintaining balance and control.
By 2005, less than two years after the attack, Bethany’s perseverance had already paid off, as she not only regained her elite amateur standing but turned pro as well. Her triumphant comeback reached Hollywood three years later in the inspiring film “Soul Surfer.” Meanwhile, Bethany used her platform to promote inspirational messages and projects, authoring books, launching her own foundation Beauties in Waves, and advocating for amputees and shark attack survivors.
Impact and Influence
Over a decade and a half since losing her arm, Bethany Hamilton remains a beloved icon and role model in both the surfing world and well beyond it. Her resilient journey was certainly defined by its initial tragedy, but became one of the most transcendent, powerful comeback stories in all of sports. For multi-millions of aspiring surfers and fans around the globe, Bethany’s indomitable positivity, unbreakable spirit, and graceful athleticism in the face of extreme adversity solidified her status as a true champion for the ages.
No matter what future challenges she must confront, Bethany’s impact extends far beyond her commendable surfing accomplishments. By constantly exemplifying courage and an unyielding motivation to pursue her dreams no matter the obstacles, she has become an empowering symbol of perseverance and inspiration for people from all walks of life.
The Powerhouse of Professional Surfing: Layne Beachley
While men’s professional surfing produced elite talents like Kelly Slater, the highest echelons of women’s surfing belonged to Australia’s mighty Layne Beachley, one of the best surfers ever. Her competitive prowess and off-water advocacy made her one of surfing’s most impactful trailblazers.
Accomplishments
- Seven-time World Champion: Won seven ASP Women’s World Tour titles, including six consecutive titles from 1998 to 2003.
- First Woman in Men’s Event: Competed in the Energy Australia Open in 2004, becoming one of the first women to compete in a men’s surfing event.
- Hall of Fame Inductions: Inducted into the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame and the US Surfing Hall of Fame in 2006, and the Sport Australia Hall of Fame in 2011.
- Officer of the Order of Australia: Appointed an Officer of the Order of Australia in 2015 for her contributions to surfing and charitable work.
- Founder of Aim for the Stars Foundation: Established the Aim for the Stars Foundation in 2003 to support young girls and women in achieving their goals.
Dominance in the Water
Hailing from Sydney, Australia, Layne Beachley emerged from humble beginnings to become a true force of nature in women’s professional surfing. After taking up the sport as a casual teen hobby, Beachley quickly developed an unwavering competitive drive and went on to claim no fewer than seven World Surf League Championship titles across an illustrious career spanning nearly two decades.
Beachley’s sustained competitive greatness is remarkable by any standard. She won her first World Title in 1998 at age 26, then rattled off five consecutive titles from 2003 to 2006 during the sport’s emerging modern era when the women’s side gained greater exposure. Even after an injury-marred slump, Layne fought back to win six consecutive world titles, her seventh title in 2008 at age 36, cementing herself at the time as the oldest World Champion in pro surfing history.
Driven by an insatiable competitive fire, Beachley was renowned for her effortless power-carving technique combining velocity, aggression, and precision. She pushed the limits of high-performance progressive surfing in her prime, throwing herself over the ledge into national wipeouts one moment, then somehow recovering to execute seamless combos of tail-riding snaps, killer snap-to-lip adjustments, and vertical reentries.
Simply put, Layne brought women’s surfing out of the shadow of their male counterparts through sheer grit and consistently jaw-dropping performances in challenging conditions.
Advocate for Women’s Surfing
While her exploits in competition were groundbreaking enough, Beachley left an equally profound mark on surfing through her advocacy for gender equality. Never forgetting her modest background and the challenges she overcame just to pursue her dreams, Beachley used her hard-earned platform to champion opportunities and fair treatment for women, both within surfing and in the broader sporting world.
She fought for equal pay, media exposure, sponsorship opportunities, and competitive events for female surfers. Her foundation, the Awaanahey Board Meeting, sought to inspire young girls through surfing clinics, empowerment camps, and outreach initiatives. Beachley’s tireless efforts shined a brighter spotlight on women’s professional surfing, creating a legacy that continued elevating women professional surfer’s recognition, support systems, and pathways for success long after she hung up her competitive jersey.
A Role Model for Future Generations
More than just an elite athlete, Layne Beachley embraced being a role model for girls and women across Australia and around the globe. Her story of rising from financial hardship fueled her relentless drive to succeed and blaze a trail for women’s athletics. Both in and out of the water, her tenacious spirit, professional accomplishments, and philanthropic vision continue inspiring the next generation of female surfers in the world and empowering young girls to courageously pursue their passion projects no matter the odds.
Paying her success forward became just as important as collecting World Titles and iconic waves. Like many surfers of all time and enduring legends, Beachley’s influence extends far beyond any single performance. She created a template for young women to confidently pursue their surfing dreams while simultaneously affecting positive systemic changes in their communities.
The Big Wave Maverick: Laird Hamilton
In surfing’s death-defying discipline of big wave riding, one name stands as the true master: the legendary Laird Hamilton. His courage, innovation, and full-circle ocean philosophy made him one of the most iconic and multifaceted figures the sport has ever witnessed.
Accomplishments
- Pioneered Tow-in Surfing: Co-invented tow-in surfing, allowing surfers to catch and ride waves over 20 feet high, revolutionizing big wave surfing.
- Rode the Millennium Wave: Successfully surfed the “Millennium Wave,” a 70-foot wave at Teahupo’o, Tahiti, in 2000, considered one of the heaviest waves ever ridden.
- Popularized Stand-Up Paddleboarding (SUP): Credited with the huge growth in popularity of stand-up paddleboarding, making it a mainstream water sport.
- Innovative Fitness Training: Developed Extreme Performance Training (XPT), a unique fitness program incorporating underwater resistance workouts, attracting top athletes and celebrities.
- Environmental and Philanthropic Efforts: Actively supports ocean conservation and various charities, including the Surfrider Foundation and Pipeline for a Cure for Cystic Fibrosis.
Chasing Giants: Laird’s Big Wave Conquests
From the feared, towering monsters of Peahi (“Jaws”) in Hawaii to the mutant-sized swells of Mavericks near San Francisco, Laird Hamilton has long been universally hailed as one of surfing’s definitive big wave chargers. This larger-than-life American icon often seemed superhuman in his ability to conquer unfathomable liquid behemoths.
Witnessing Hamilton’s blend of high-skill tube-riding and death-defying bravado at mythical big wave breaks left surfers of all abilities simply awestruck. At Teahupoo and other waves of maximum consequence, Laird commanded the avalanche drops, threw huge sprays, and showed unbelievable mastery of his equipment while going deeper and kicking out harder than any of his contemporaries. He pioneered the use of tow-in inflatable surfboards, unlocking entry into unprecedented and respected big wave surfers in realms unimaginable with traditional paddle techniques.
Laird’s spirit for hunting and conquering the biggest rideable swells on the planet was matched only by his preparation. Pushing limits and escaping staggeringly heavy wipeouts became his signature, fueling fans’ obsession with his ability to continually survive and thrive in situations that seemed unfathomable.
Innovator and Waterman
Driven by his unquenchable desire to unlock the human body’s potential to harmonize with the ocean’s power, Laird collaborated on innovations like the modern-day big wave gun, allowing surfers previously unthinkable accessibility to rides of calamitous strength.
His Laird Standup equipment and experiences promoted the physical and mental benefits of reconnecting with the ocean through conscious breathwork techniques. Hamilton’s full-circle mentality emphasized both sustainability and safety—his big wave upbringing gave him insight into the ocean’s raw danger, further fueling his advocacy for young surfers to build proper foundations.
Fitness and Philosophy
Now in his late 50s, Laird Hamilton continues pursuing an elite physical regimen that underscores his life-long commitment to riding surfing’s cutting-edge. Whether it’s grueling breath holds, underwater weight training, or arduous calisthenic circuits, his daily disciplines still leave athletes half his age in awe. Hamilton’s distinct philosophy focuses on developing functional, explosive full-body strength and flexibility conducive to dynamic ocean activities.
This never-stagnant approach mirrors his overarching life credo of constant self-improvement and expansion of human limitations. Hamilton has authored books and delivered motivational speeches further championing the spiritual connection between movement, breath, and harnessing the ocean’s primal vitality forces. Following his lead, a new generation of cross-training surfers continue emerging to tastefully blur the boundaries of optimal big wave surfers and human performance.
The mental aspects of Laird’s approach further ensure he’ll be remembered as surfing’s ultimate waterman. From championing ocean sustainability to embracing surfing’s spiritual communion with the natural world, his character and philosophies transcend just being a stellar wave-rider.
The Legends of Surf
These five favorite surfers and icons—Duke Kahanamoku, Kelly Slater, Bethany Hamilton, Layne Beachley, and Laird Hamilton—represent surfing’s driving forces of creativity, athleticism, resilience, and spirituality. Their triumphs, innovations, and philosophies continue inspiring future generations to push boundaries in and out of the water while honouring surfing’s sacred soul.