A riptide isn’t actually a tide at all. It’s a powerful narrow current that flows away from the beach. These currents can move faster than an Olympic swimmer, reaching speeds up to 8 feet per second. For surfers, they’re both a hazard and a tool, depending on your knowledge and experience.
The making of a riptide (or rip current)
Waves continuously push water toward the shore. This water needs to find a way back out to sea. When it finds a path of least resistance—often a break in a sandbar, a gap between rock formations, or near a pier or jetty—the water rushes back out in a concentrated stream. That’s your riptide.
These currents typically form on beaches with breaking waves. They’re more common when there’s rough surf, but they can occur on seemingly calm days too. The water in a riptide often looks different from the surrounding ocean. For example, it might be darker, have choppy or rippled surfaces, or carry debris flowing seaward.
Reading the signs
Experienced surfers spot riptides before paddling out. Look for:
- Dark gaps between waves of white foam
- A channel of churning, choppy water
- A line of seaweed or debris moving steadily seaward
- A noticeable break in the incoming wave pattern
- Discolored water extending beyond the surf zone
Many beaches post warning flags or signs about riptide conditions. Red flags mean dangerous conditions exist, while yellow flags signal caution. Green flags may suggest safer conditions, but no surf session is entirely risk-free.
What happens if you get caught by a riptide?
The natural instinct when caught in a riptide is to paddle straight back to shore. This is exactly what you shouldn’t do, as even strong surfers will tire fighting against the current.
Stay calm
Keep hold of your board, as it’s your best flotation device. Focus on your breathing and remember riptides don’t pull you under.
Float or tread water to conserve energy
Sit up on your board while you get your bearings. Most riptides dissipate just beyond the surf zone. Watch where other surfers are successfully paddling.
Swim parallel to the shore until you’re out of the current
Riptides are usually narrow, 20 to 100 feet wide. Paddle parallel to shore until you’re out of the pull. Look for areas where waves are breaking cleanly.
Once free from the pull, swim at an angle toward shore
When you no longer feel the current pulling you out, paddle diagonally back to the lineup or beach. Use incoming waves to help carry you in.
Prevention tips
Surfing near a lifeguard offers your best chance of staying safe. Before heading out, always check the surf conditions and forecasts so you know what you’re up against. Surfing with a buddy is a good habit, as you can watch out for each other in case of trouble.
It’s wise to steer clear of piers and jetties. These areas are hotspots for riptides. Also pay attention to warning flags and posted signs—red signals dangerous conditions, yellow calls for caution and green indicates generally safer waters, though no surf is entirely risk-free.
Teaching groms about riptides
Young surfers should understand riptide safety as part of their beach education. They need to know the importance of surfing with an adult or staying under supervision and keeping within the lifeguard’s line of sight. The buddy system adds an extra layer of safety and kids should feel comfortable signalling for help if they’re in trouble. If they feel scared or tired, floating calmly and conserving energy is often the safest approach.
Breaking the grip of panic
When caught in a riptide, the most dangerous threat isn’t the current itself but the panic it can cause. Losing your composure saps energy and clouds judgement. Staying calm allows you to think clearly and act appropriately. Many surfers exhaust themselves by trying to fight against the pull, but floating and swimming parallel to shore offers the best chance to escape the current safely.
What are the rescue basics?
In a riptide emergency, staying calm and acting quickly can save lives. You want to get help fast and provide support without putting yourself in danger. Here’s how you can assist safely:
- Call for help immediately.
- Alert a lifeguard if available.
- Throw a flotation device, like a surfboard, to the person.
- Keep them in sight at all times.
- Avoid entering the water unless you’re trained in lifesaving.
It’s better to call for professional help than to risk becoming another victim. Acting quickly and staying safe ensures the best outcome for everyone involved.
Geographical hotspots for riptides
Riptides occur along coastlines worldwide, but some areas are more prone to them than others. Beaches with sandbars, areas near piers or jetties, spots where waves approach at an angle, locations with significant tidal changes and curved coastlines are all hotspots for riptides. Knowing the specific risks of your beach can make all the difference. Speaking to lifeguards about typical riptide patterns in the area is always a good idea.
Research consistently shows that staying calm and swimming parallel to the shore is the most effective way to escape a riptide. The current weakens the further out it flows, usually dissipating beyond the surf zone. By understanding this, swimmers can avoid the exhaustion and danger of fighting directly against the current, giving themselves a better chance to reach safety.
How the weather impacts riptides
Riptides can become more powerful during stormy weather, high winds, spring tides and rough surf. Always check weather reports and local beach conditions, especially after storms, as riptides are more likely to occur in these conditions.
Check weather reports and local beach conditions before swimming, especially after storms when riptides may be more prevalent.
Avoiding riptides
The ocean demands respect. No swim is worth risking your life. When in doubt, stay out. Understanding riptides helps you make smart decisions about ocean swimming and could save your life or someone else’s.
